Well, I have managed to find another internet cafe and this one has a bit faster connection which is good... I am still having a hard time finding punctuation and whatnot so bare with me and my creative spelling techniques.
so far I ve managed to surf every morning and not get sunburned at all... until today... we went out to a reef break and sat waiting for the sets to come in for about an hour... the water was beautiful and clear and blue and I was on my stomach paddling around for a while which led to my first burn and yes, its exactly where you may have guessed. Im having a bit of a hard time getting comfortable while sitting because I resemble the coppertone girl from those old ads. I even have the rash guard line right above my bikini line. TMI? sorry. okay, back to the surf part of my day, well... I finally caught a wave after an hour of waiting, I rode it until I sank and then started to paddle back, I was doing very well until I noticed a shark swimming RIGHT beside me I could have reached out to touch it! so I very quickly put all limbs on top of my board and watched until it swam away... it was a small one probably about three and a half feet, but it was still a shark and it was swimming beside me and I was on a surf board looking like a seal or something from below... I yelled to Ryan who thought I said it was a 12 foot shark so he started to freak a bit because just 45 minutes before that he was talking about how a shark would never be in the waters below us... they all hang out down the way. yeah... that¨s exactly the kind of murphys law that bites you... literally.
Anyway, he paddled over beside me and told me that I was going to catch the next wave... I caught it, rode it out, hopped back on my board only to see a huge wave coming at me so I decided that I can either start paddling and try to catch it or I can get hammered by it... I paddled, caught it rode it until I could no longer ride it... there were a TON of huge rocks below me and the last thing I wanted to do was get smashed into those so I laid down on my board and rode the wave up on top of the largest rocks scraping my fins against them... I then had to hike out of the rocks until I found a nice little keyhole to jump back on my board and paddle back to the car... fun times. but apparently I caught the wave of the day because ryan thought I rode that last wave all the way into shore... he had no idea that I caught two. so I left with a burn on my butt my right arm has a good trucker tan and I missed a shark by a few feet... sheew.
tomorrow Gato is taking me out... hes the numero uno surfer in costa rica... Im really excited to watch him surf, and more excited to learn some things from him.
so basically I wake up, surf, eat, walk around and explore, eat again, go to the beach for sunset, befriend the stray dogs who really have owners but also have the freedom to go wherever they please and for some reason they like to hang out with me whether its lying on the beach next to me or following me into town, and I dont even feed them. and I sleep... ahhh, peaceful weary bones and body kind of sleep. its wonderful.
yesterday I also ran into Matt and Erica at lunch... they stopped in on their way to town to pick some things up. Erica said shes going to try and get matt to leave early on friday morning and spend the night down here in dominical with us! then we ll leave on saturday morning to go to finca bella vista for 3 days. cant wait.
hope all is well back home, I ll try to keep up with this thingy so you all know I havent been lost at sea. life is amazing here I cant say it enough.
xox,
chanon
so far I ve managed to surf every morning and not get sunburned at all... until today... we went out to a reef break and sat waiting for the sets to come in for about an hour... the water was beautiful and clear and blue and I was on my stomach paddling around for a while which led to my first burn and yes, its exactly where you may have guessed. Im having a bit of a hard time getting comfortable while sitting because I resemble the coppertone girl from those old ads. I even have the rash guard line right above my bikini line. TMI? sorry. okay, back to the surf part of my day, well... I finally caught a wave after an hour of waiting, I rode it until I sank and then started to paddle back, I was doing very well until I noticed a shark swimming RIGHT beside me I could have reached out to touch it! so I very quickly put all limbs on top of my board and watched until it swam away... it was a small one probably about three and a half feet, but it was still a shark and it was swimming beside me and I was on a surf board looking like a seal or something from below... I yelled to Ryan who thought I said it was a 12 foot shark so he started to freak a bit because just 45 minutes before that he was talking about how a shark would never be in the waters below us... they all hang out down the way. yeah... that¨s exactly the kind of murphys law that bites you... literally.
Anyway, he paddled over beside me and told me that I was going to catch the next wave... I caught it, rode it out, hopped back on my board only to see a huge wave coming at me so I decided that I can either start paddling and try to catch it or I can get hammered by it... I paddled, caught it rode it until I could no longer ride it... there were a TON of huge rocks below me and the last thing I wanted to do was get smashed into those so I laid down on my board and rode the wave up on top of the largest rocks scraping my fins against them... I then had to hike out of the rocks until I found a nice little keyhole to jump back on my board and paddle back to the car... fun times. but apparently I caught the wave of the day because ryan thought I rode that last wave all the way into shore... he had no idea that I caught two. so I left with a burn on my butt my right arm has a good trucker tan and I missed a shark by a few feet... sheew.
tomorrow Gato is taking me out... hes the numero uno surfer in costa rica... Im really excited to watch him surf, and more excited to learn some things from him.
so basically I wake up, surf, eat, walk around and explore, eat again, go to the beach for sunset, befriend the stray dogs who really have owners but also have the freedom to go wherever they please and for some reason they like to hang out with me whether its lying on the beach next to me or following me into town, and I dont even feed them. and I sleep... ahhh, peaceful weary bones and body kind of sleep. its wonderful.
yesterday I also ran into Matt and Erica at lunch... they stopped in on their way to town to pick some things up. Erica said shes going to try and get matt to leave early on friday morning and spend the night down here in dominical with us! then we ll leave on saturday morning to go to finca bella vista for 3 days. cant wait.
hope all is well back home, I ll try to keep up with this thingy so you all know I havent been lost at sea. life is amazing here I cant say it enough.
xox,
chanon
3 comments:
Did you hear the jaws music start playing? Very scary but cool story. Enjoy the great weather 'caus it's snowing hear!
"peaceful weary bones" is going to be the name of my 17th album...watch for it. so stoked to be able to read about what you are up to.
You're my hero...seriously!!! I'm so glad my rash guard could see some real action!!! Keep being you...we love it!
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